Acne (The Basics)

Acne? More like ACK!-ne. (For the record, it’s really pronounced AK-nee.) It’s those sometimes-painful, often goo-filled bumps that show up on your face starting in puberty. But what are they, exactly, and what causes them? ACNE is an inflammation or swelling of the skin caused by clogged pores. Your body always produces oil, but during puberty that oil production increases (thanks, hormones! ), and sometimes it’s more than your pores can handle. Add bacteria that live on the skin to the mix, and you suddenly have clogged, swollen, red pores full of ewwww.

What’s black, white, and red all over?

(Hint: it’s not a newspaper!)

The words acne, pimple, and zit are all pretty interchangeable (and not fun), but most people think of PIMPLES and ZITS as blemishes that come out one or two at a time, and ACNE as blemishes that hang out in a group. Because there’ s more than one kind of blemish, there’ s more than one way to get rid of them. So what’ s what, and how do you attack a breakout?

Blackheads: These are your most basic pimples, and they are so small you almost can’t see them. When your pores get clogged and stay open, oil and bacteria react with the air and turn black. Blackheads are sometimes slightly raised, but mostly they’re just visible as tiny black dots on your skin. Use a gentle face wash containing salicylic acid to keep your skin clean, and try adding a little over-the-counter acne spot treatment as well.

Whiteheads: Almost as basic as blackheads, whiteheads happen when those same clogged pores close up. Whiteheads are raised white dots on your skin that are almost entirely on the surface, don’t hurt, and aren’t too swollen. They often appear around your nose, chin, or forehead. Use the same plan of attack as you would for blackheads.

Papules & Pustules: Now we’re getting into acne territory. Papules are HARD and RED, and the skin around them is usually irritated. They often appear in groups, because they think your face is a party. Pustules are just like papules, but they’re filled with PUS and appear white. Try treating both of these with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. However, if you’re finding that they’re not going away, you might want to talk to a dermatologist— that’ s a skin doctor—about other solutions

Nodules & Cysts: There’s nothing to sugarcoat here—these are the worst. Nodules are big, angry pimples that go deep under the skin, are swollen, and hurt when you touch them. Cysts are their evil twins and are filled with pus. Both are red and inflamed. If you have nodules or cysts, wash your face using a solution containing benzoyl peroxide, but you’ll probably want to visit a dermatologist, who will help you come up with a plan of action, like trying to identify acne triggers and prescribing something you can’t buy in the store.

On the proper (and improper) treatment of your face:

Proper: Wash your face two times a day. Use a fragrance-free, mild face cleanser, warm water, and clean hands. Just don’t overdo it—natural oils are important for keeping your skin healthy. Too much washing will dry you out!

Improper: Keep your mitts off your mug! The dirt and oils on your fingers can easily spread, so wash your hands before touching your face.


Proper: Patience. The best way for that giant zit to disappear? On its own. It may be agonizing, but letting a pimple run its course will leave your skin happiest in the long run.

Improper: Popping. We know you want to pop your pimples, but don’t. Why? Popping your pimples can actually make the skin around them more inflamed, and breaking the skin leaves it open to more bacteria. In other words, it can make it much, much worse.


Proper: Pop correctly. We know you’re going to ignore our advice and pop anyway, so make sure you do it right and pop only whiteheads— that is, pimples that are entirely on the surface.

Improper: Picking. What’s worse than zits? Scars where your zits used to be. Which will definitely happen if you pick at them.


Proper: Sharing. It’s hard to know which face washes will work for you and which won’t, especially when there are so many to choose from. Gather a small group of friends and trade face washes weekly until you all find ones you like. Just don’t share any prescriptions you got from your doc.

Improper: Giving up! Acne sucks. We know, because we have it (some more than others). But it doesn’t define who you are! Make sure people can see the girl you are beneath your skin. The most important thing is having a happy and healthy lifestyle. And keep experimenting… you might find the perfect formula for you! Just know that eventually your skin will return mostly to normal.

To learn more puberty skin care tips and tricks, check out The Book. 

About The Book:

Welcome to Bunk 9—and a new girl-powered puberty book girls will want to read.

Based on the lively conceit that it’s written by nine older girls at a fictional summer camp who share their collective been-there, done-that experiences, Bunk 9’s Guide to Growing Up is a puberty book with a twist, an entertaining, up-to-date, supportive guide that covers the head-to-toe changes that young girls go through as they grow up. Since it is written in the voices of different girls, reading it is like listening to your best friend or older sister giving no-nonsense information, advice, and tips on menstruation, breasts, hygiene, health and nutrition, boys, and all the complicated feelings that go along with these changes. Filled with callouts, doodles, and margin notes, it’s a book that’s gentle enough for a third grader and thorough enough for a middle schooler, and it’s vetted by a pediatrician.

Buy the Book
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