1000 Places

Cruising France’s Seine River

with Uniworld’s S.S. Joie De Vivre

A gargoyle overlooks the Seine River and Paris, City of Light, at dusk.

Patricia at Palais de Versailles

Getting on board with the ever-growing popularity of European river cruises, many sign on for the deservedly popular Danube as their first choice. But discerning Francophiles, those in the know, and veteran cruisers looking for where to go next, are focusing their attention on one of Europe’s more overlooked rivers, putting the Seine on their short list of dreamy sailing options. When Uniworld christened their newest ship, the S.S. Joie de Vivre, in 2017, they ushered in a new level of luxury on the Seine.

The gardens surrounding the home of Claude Monet at Giverny

When a Seine cruise offers Paris as the point of both departure and return (few European river cruises are round-trip), one almost need not say more. But upon closer look, the 8-day itinerary aboard the Joie de Vivre boasts a mix of France’s greatest hits, from the dazzling homes of the Sun King (the opulent Palace of Versailles) and Claude Monet (the legendary gardens of Giverny, where water lilies were blooming during our visit) to Rouen, the small and elegant capital of Normandy. Known for its beautifully preserved Old Town and celebrated Gothic cathedral, which Monet repeatedly painted so luminously, Rouen is also known as the place where, in 1431, Joan of Arc was burned as a heretic at the stake.

Patricia at the Old Harbor, Honfleur

But perhaps it was the Normandy coast that was the standout memory for many. In the company of our remarkably well-informed guide, we learned how the coast was an important muse of the Impressionist painters (how the charm of the fishing town of Honfleur, for one, was captured on countless canvases). We also explored its significance in the Allies’ D-Day invasion—the landing beaches and the pivotal role they played during the final days of World War II was explained in detail, with taps played for us on a deserted Omaha Beach at the end of an emotional day.

The Joie de Vivre’s size allows it to dock in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower

I floated through this history- and gastronomy-rich region of northern France aboard Uniworld’s 128-passenger Joie de Vivre, built to reflect the “joy of living” philosophy, as its name promises. It is a stylish celebration of all things French, with an unrivaled attention to food and wine (and plenty of it—with an accent on French classics, locally sourced and paired with vintages carefully chosen by the resident sommelier). This is all enjoyed around the clock amidst an ultra-authentic French aesthetic designed to recall Paris in the first half of the 20th century—with rich fabrics, original vintage posters and art, and choice items and paintings from the personal collection of the hands-on owners, the Tollman family (the same family proudly at the helm of Red Carnation Hotels and Trafalgar Tours).

The lounge of the Joie de Vivre

The cruise line’s full name—Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection—may be a mouthful, but, in fact, our one-of-a-kind river vessel—designed specifically with the Seine itinerary in mind—felt very much like a floating 5-star boutique hotel that was both high end and low key. Its oh-so-French style throughout was tasteful and polished, but never too-too. The Joie de Vivre is unprecedented for a European river vessel in many impressive ways, beginning with its special measurements. (It was built 10 meters shorter than the standard river ship yet still feels surprisingly spacious.) This size allows it to conveniently dock in the 15th Arrondissement, within walking distance of the city’s most beloved landmark, the Eiffel Tower (a 20-minute stroll away), while most other Seine cruise boats are required to dock farther outside of the city center.

A spacious and supremely comfortable stateroom

The price for Uniworld’s journey on the Seine includes many things beyond all land excursions that are not commonly covered on other river cruises, from numerous dining venues and room service to top-shelf beverages and crew gratuities. The handsome and spacious staterooms are extremely comfortable thanks in large part to the super-plush handcrafted Savoir of England beds. Perhaps it is the bed, which all the passengers were talking about, that best encapsulates Uniworld’s ardent dedication to comfort and quality. Impeccable service is also of paramount importance, and at any given time the truly friendly and attentive crew from around the world (Uniworld boasts the highest staff-to-guest ratio in the river cruise industry) does their best to grant your every wish.

The Gothic cathedral and centerpiece of Rouen

There is plenty to do in between stops, from al fresco yoga classes at sunrise to live lounge music and local entertainment après dinner that enhances the sailing’s regional focus. Land excursions were perfectly organized, with several options in each port (including the use of complimentary bicycles on board), and passengers were broken down into smaller groups and also offered three pacing options—active, regular, or gentle. Then each group was placed in the seasoned hands of a local expert. The affable concierge could also arrange bespoke experiences upon request: Want to play a round of golf or arrange a private tour? Check off Mont-Saint-Michel (a full-day excursion not on the program)? Procure Moulin Rouge tickets upon your return to Paris?

No request went unmet, ensuring that our one-week sail on the Seine was both relaxing and enchanting. This was surely joie de vivre at its best.

Patricia traveled with Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection and the S.S. Joie de Vivre.

The port and fishing town of Honfluer provided inspiration to the Impressionist painters.

 

And don’t forget to check out the book!

About the Book:

The world’s bestselling travel book is back in a more informative, more experiential, more budget-friendly full-color edition. A #1 New York Times bestseller, 1,000 Places reinvented the idea of travel book as both wish list and practical guide. As Newsweek wrote, it “tells you what’s beautiful, what’s fun, and what’s just unforgettable—everywhere on earth.” And now the best is better. There are 600 full-color photographs. Over 200 entirely new entries, including visits to 28 countries like Lebanon, Croatia, Estonia, and Nicaragua, that were not in the original edition. There is an emphasis on experiences: an entry covers not just Positano or Ravello, but the full 30-mile stretch along the Amalfi Coast.

Every entry from the original edition has been readdressed, rewritten, and made fuller, with more suggestions for places to stay, restaurants to visit, and festivals to check out. And throughout, the book is more budget-conscious, with starred restaurants and historic hotels such as the Ritz, but also moderately priced gems that don’t compromise on atmosphere or charm.

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