In researching their companion volume to the award-winning Hot Sour Salty Sweet, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid traveled west from Southeast Asia to that vast landmass the colonial British called the Indian Subcontinent. It includes not just India, but extends north to Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Nepal and as far south as Sri Lanka. For people who love food and cooking, this vast region is a source of infinite variety and eye-opening flavors.
From Mangoes & Curry Leaves, here’s their recipe for a morning treat that puts oatmeal to shame.
MORNING RICE AND YOGURT WITH FRESH FRUIT
“Flattened rice, also known as rice flakes, is called chira or poha in northern India, aval in southern India. It’s rice that’s been cooked and then run through rollers and flattened into flakes. The flakes are a pale grayish white and fairly soft, rather than crisp. Sold in clear plastic bags, they keep well. Chira is very quick to reconstitute and requires no boiling, so it’s a godsend for cooks in very hot weather or in a big hurry.
We ate a version of this morning rice flake treat in Assam, the Indian state that straddles the Brahmaputra River, in the far northeast of the country. In Assam, many people eat rice three times a day. The Assamese and Bengali name for the dish is phalahar. It’s like a tropical granola, the rice flakes stirred into yogurt and then the whole mixture sweetened with honey and perfumed with fresh fruit.”
- 1/2 cup rice flakes
- 1 cup plain (full- or reduced-fat) yogurt
- Pinch of salt
- 1 banana, chopped, or about 1 cup chopped mango
- 1 tablespoon honey or sugar
Place the rice flakes in a larger bowl and wash by adding cold water to cover generously. Swirl around with your hand, then drain in a sieve over a sink. Repeat once or twice. Place the flakes back in the bowl and add ½ cup very hot water. Stir and set aside for 10 minutes, then drain off any excess water.
Add the yogurt and salt and stir to blend. Add the fruit and stir in. Add the honey or sugar and stir. Serve in cereal bowls, or put out the large bowl so guests can serve themselves.
Makes about 4 cups; serves 4
Take a tour of the Indian Subcontinent with Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid. Exploring the cuisine of India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Sri Lanka, Mangoes & Curry Leaves includes more than 200 recipes for a tantalizing array of chutneys, curries, rice dishes, flatbreads, dals, and street foods.
